Mount Shock
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Mount Shock

Potholes, Cars, and the Importance of Checking Shocks After Winter
While spring brings welcoming warmth and new growth, it also uncovers some nasty winter potholes. This inevitably brings the dreaded season of road construction, but I think I'd rather have a safe road than a quick drive. While we wait for road repairs, many drivers experience an unpleasant encounter with one of winter's potholes and some may even have the unfortunate luck of their cars getting damaged from them.
Damage caused to a car suspension may be apparent right away, but often times it isn't. If you're unsure of what to visually look for, there are different tests you can do to check your shocks. To determine whether you need to replace your shocks, you can stand near the corner of your car near the shocks and give a hard, sudden push. If your car pushes down easily or bounces several times, you may need to replace your shocks. Also, pay attention while you drive. Your car will feel less controllable during fast turning and the nose of the car will dip noticeably under hard braking if the shocks are worn.
When visually inspecting your shocks, you want to look for things such dented housing, broken mounts, and leaking (a big indicator that your shocks are blown and need to be replaced). You can inspect your shock assembly by loosening the lug nuts on the wheels, using a jack to raise the vehicle, and taking the lug nuts and tires completely off.
If you are unfamiliar with automobiles, it is a good idea take it to an Auto Service Plus repair facility to fix your suspension. Shocks are relatively easy to replace, but if your vehicle is in need of struts, a certified mechanic is recommended. You should be able to find instructions on how to change your specific make and model relatively easy, but here is a quick general guide to changing front shocks:
1. Loosen lug nuts, raise car with a jack, and complete removal of lug nuts and tires.
2. Remove the lower attachment bolts and nuts of the shock absorber and grasp the shock absorber piston. With a wrench, remove the upper attachment nut from the shock absorber piston rod. Once you have done this, remove the old shock.
3. Install new lower washers and rubber mounts. Slide shocks through the lower A frames and tighten the lower shock bolts.
4. Return tires and lug nuts, tightening them before lowering car. Make sure to give the lug nuts one more quarter turn once the car is lowered.
Though all potholes aren't avoidable, there are some precautions you can take while driving. Leave enough room between you and the vehicle ahead of you in order to give you time to see what's in or on the road. You should also be aware of your surroundings, not only to be a safe driver, but also so you aren't forced to suddenly swerve into a pothole so avoid a collision. Drive at a slower pace when driving on a pothole filled road, as more damage is caused at higher speeds. And last but not least, be sure never to hit your brakes while driving over a pothole, as this will put the greatest amount of stress on the front suspension and begin a mess of problems.
About the Author
what's the best camcorder to buy that can use a shock mount and has a XLR jack?
I record front row at rock concerts and my built in mic sony camcorder is a joke. I will spend $$$ (up to $1500 or a bit more) but I need knowledge HELP! And what kinda external mic should i be using? I'm thinking shotgun?
I record front row at rock concerts and my built in sony camcorder mic is a joke. I will spend $$$ (up to $2000 or a bit more) but I need knowledge HELP! And what kinda external mic should i be using? I'm thinking shotgun? I'm all about the audio folks, tired of crappy sound!!
An external mic will improve your audio capture ONLY if the camcorder (or audio storage equipment) has manual audio control.
Since you did not tell us which Sony camcorder you are using, we have no way to know if it has "MicRefLevel" rudimentary control in the menu. "Normal" for normal audio, "Low" mic gain for LOUD audio capture.
It is also possible that your Sony - like my HDR-HC1 - has fairly granular audio input/mic gain control in the menu... or, like my HDR-FX1, has manual audio control on the outside of the camcorder.
If there is no audio gain control, or if you are not using it, there is no mic in the world that will improve your camcorder's audio capture.
Presuming the audio is loud, I would much prefer stereo audio. Audio Technica Pro24, RODE video stereo mic and the NRG SA-800 would be at the low-end. I use an Audio Technica AT-825... Many times, If I am in the right place, I find the camcorder's built-in mics are acceptable - but manual audio control is a must - without that, the sound will be very muddy and can have lots of "static" (that is "peaking" because the auto-mic gain circuitry is being overwhelmed by the too-loud audio.
Shotgun mics are typically mono - unless you get the high end stereo shotgun mics from Sennheiser or Audio Technica. I do not believe you need a shotgun mic - the audio pick-up pattern for shotgun mics is generally what is in front of the camcorder. At a loud concert, this sort of audio discrimination is not required.
If you are convinced you need a new camcorder, I think the least expensive will be the Sony HVR-A1U. Next up are the Canon XHA1, Sony HVR-Z1/Z5/Z7 and the Panasonic AG-HVX200.
You *could* go with a consumer cam (like a Canon HV40) or a prosumer (Canon GL2) that uses a 1/8" audio input - but use an XLR adapter (juicedLink CX231 or BeachTek DXA-6).
BUT, you have not provided enough information to determine if you even need a new camcorder.
MINI Cooper Shock Mount Failure
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