Charger Nicad
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Charger Nicad

Learn To Diagnose a NiCad Battery Charger
Battery chargers, including NiCad (nickel-cadmium) chargers, usually operate for many years and exceed the lifetime of a NiCad battery. It's likely you will get through three or more NiCad batteries before you have a problem using the charger. However, if you find your battery doesn't charge, check the NiCad charger to diagnose whether it's producing an electrical charge; it may simply need a replacement fuse.
1.Check if the NiCad charger is producing an electrical charge using a voltmeter. Find the label on the charger unit. It should tell you the output voltage the NiCad charger produces, if it's operating correctly.
2.Get your voltmeter nearby. Locate the plug on the end of the NiCad charger, if it's a wired type. If it's a charger, you put your batteries inside. Open the dell battery cover so you can see the charger terminals.
3.Plug your charger into the main electrical supply. Turn on your charger so it's set to produce a charge, if it's operating correctly.
4.Place the metal prongs on the end of the wires from the voltmeter onto the metal plug on the end of the wire from the charger, or onto the terminals inside the battery charger compartment. The prong on the end of the red wire from the voltmeter needs to touch the positive connector, and the prong on the end of the black wire needs to touch the negative connector. If your charger has a plug on the end of a wire, the outer metal band is negative and the inner metal band on the end of the plug is positive. If the toshiba computer batteries fit into the charger, the terminals are marked "+" and "-," so place the prongs on the respective terminals.
5.Look at the voltmeter display. It measures the output voltage from the charger and is the same voltage as the label, if it's producing a charge. If the voltage is the same, or similar, as the output voltage on the charger label, your charger is working fine. If the reading is zero, you need to check the fuse.
6.Locate the fuse cover. It's usually on the underside of the charger and is a small rectangular shape. If it screws in place, use a suitable screwdriver to loosen the screw. You don't need to remover it completely. The cover can be easily removed once the screw is loosened. It the cover clips in place, lift and remove the cover using a small screwdriver.
7.Pull the fuse out of the fuse holder using your fingers. You may find it easier to pry it out slightly using a screwdriver.
8.Look at the fuse to see whether the thin metal strand inside the plastic fuse is broken. If you can't see the metal strand, use the voltmeter to test if the fuse is blown. Set your voltmeter to the lowest setting. Place the two prongs on the end of the wires from the voltmeter onto the two exposed metal parts of the fuse; it doesn't matter which prong touches which metal part of the fuse.
9.Read the voltmeter display. If the fuse is broken, the voltmeter won't register a reading. If the fuse is not broken, you will see a small reading on the voltmeter. This is because you have completed an electrical circuit and the voltmeter records this, if it's set to a low level.
10.Get a replacement fuse from an electrical store if the fuse is broken. Take the fuse to the store as it's important you get an exact replacement. If the fuse isn't broken and your charger doesn't charge, it means there's something internally wrong with the charger so you need to get it checked out by a professional as chargers are sealed units. In most cases, it's better to get a replacement as they are not expensive.
11.Put the replacement fuse into the fuse holder. Push it in place using your fingers. Replace the fuse cover. Plug in the charger and test the output using the voltmeter the same way as before. If it produces a charge you know it was the fuse. If no charge is registered, then you need to get a replacement charger, or have it checked out professionally.
About the Author
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My dewalt 18v battery charger actually charges 46 volts and 2 amps, why?
Does this set up the NIcad batteries for Early Failure? Shouldnt it be 18 volts and 2 amps instead?
the 2 amps is the continuous amperage from the bottom label.
The open circuit voltage might be 46 Volts ... but it wont be when the batteries are hooked up. If the charger could maintain 46V while attached to the batteries, the current would go way up and batteries would be ruined almost instantly.
Most chargers have some intelligence built in (as do many batteries) include monitoring of voltage, current and temperature.
I just finished a reverse engineering job for batteries and charger for a major tool company ... the batteries had microcontrollers with A/D capability and temperature sensors on board. The chargers were quite suffisticated as well including pulsed charging schemes and monitoring/balancing of individual cell voltages.
Edit: To be fair, the tools I was investigating were at the higher end. It's true that there are a lot of 'stupid' chargers out there than can really harm/shorten the battery life.
Dualsky n61 charging Nicad battery
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